What is Waterless Skincare? Why Anhydrous Moisturizers Work Differently

Walk down almost any skincare aisle and turn over a bottle of lotion.

There is a good chance the first ingredient you see is water.

That isn’t automatically a bad thing. Water serves legitimate purposes in cosmetic formulation. It helps create lotions and creams, improves spreadability, carries water-soluble ingredients, and contributes to the lighter texture many people expect from conventional moisturizers.

But water also changes what you’re buying.

When water makes up a substantial portion of a moisturizer, less of that finished formula is made up of oils, butters, waxes, and other nonaqueous ingredients. Water is also inexpensive compared with many of the plant oils and butters used in richer moisturizers.

Waterless skincare takes a different approach.

Instead of starting with an aqueous base, an anhydrous moisturizer is formulated without an added water phase. The result is a fundamentally different type of product, one in which oils, butters, waxes, and other nonaqueous ingredients can make up essentially the entire formulation.

Does that automatically make waterless skincare better?

No.

But it does make it different.

And after years of buying moisturizers that promised lasting hydration only to leave our skin feeling dry again a few hours later, that difference became the starting point for Frozen People.

What Does “Waterless Skincare” Actually Mean?

“Waterless skincare” is primarily a marketing and formulation term rather than a standardized measure of moisturizer performance.

Anhydrous is more specific. It literally means without water. In skincare and formulation, the term is commonly used for products made without an aqueous water phase. Oils, balms, body butters, and certain ointments can fall into this broad category.

Frozen People Body Butter is an anhydrous moisturizer.

Our formula is built around:

• Mango butter
• Jojoba oil
• Vitamin E
• Arrowroot powder
• Essential oils in our scented varieties

Our Unscented formula contains no added essential oils or fragrance.

There is no added water, no alcohol, and no synthetic fragrance.

That sounds simple because it is.

But removing water changes much more than the ingredient list.

First, It Helps to Understand How Your Skin Holds Water

Your skin barrier is largely located in the outermost layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum.

One common analogy describes it as “bricks and mortar.”

The bricks are flattened skin cells called corneocytes. Surrounding them is a highly organized lipid matrix composed largely of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Together, this structure helps limit excessive water loss while protecting the body from the outside environment.[1,2]

Your stratum corneum also contains natural moisturizing factor, or NMF, a mixture of water-attracting compounds including amino acids, urea, lactate, and other substances that help maintain hydration and flexibility.[3]

Water is constantly moving through the skin and eventually evaporating from its surface. That process is called transepidermal water loss, or TEWL.

When the barrier is disrupted, water can escape more readily. Skin may become dry, rough, tight, flaky, or cracked.[1,2]

Moisturizers are designed to intervene in that process.

But they don’t all do it in exactly the same way.

How Moisturizers Actually Work

Moisturizing ingredients are commonly discussed in three broad categories: occlusives, humectants, and emollients.[4,5]

Occlusives

Help create a barrier at the skin surface that reduces water loss. Petrolatum is one of the most extensively studied and effective examples.[6,7]

Humectants

Such as glycerin and urea, interact with water and can increase hydration within the stratum corneum.[8,9]

Emollients

Soften and smooth the skin, improving the feel and flexibility of the outer skin.[5]

Many conventional creams and lotions combine these strategies.

Anhydrous body butters take a different formulation approach. Without an aqueous base, they rely much more heavily on oils, butters, waxes, and other lipid-based ingredients for their emollient and moisture-sealing properties.

That’s an important distinction.

Waterless skincare isn’t about somehow supplying your skin with “waterless hydration.”

It’s about helping your skin hold onto the moisture it already has while providing emollient ingredients that soften and condition the skin.

So Why Is Water in Lotion?

Because water actually does several useful things.

This is where conversations about waterless skincare can become unnecessarily misleading.

Water isn’t some useless ingredient cosmetic companies put into lotion solely to rip people off.

It can provide immediate hydration to the stratum corneum, although that effect by itself is transient. Water also provides a vehicle for water-soluble ingredients and helps create the emulsions that give lotions and creams their characteristic texture and spreadability.[4,10,11]

Those are legitimate formulation advantages.

There is also a very practical economic reality:

Water is cheap.

Mango butter isn’t.

Jojoba oil isn’t.

High-quality botanical ingredients aren’t.

If a significant percentage of a moisturizer consists of water, that necessarily means a smaller percentage of the finished product consists of oils, butters, waxes, and other nonaqueous ingredients.

That doesn’t make the product bad.

But as consumers, it eventually made us ask a different question:

Why are we paying premium prices for moisturizers built primarily around one of the cheapest ingredients in the formula when our skin still feels dry a few hours later?

That question eventually became much more important to us than whether water was technically useful in cosmetic chemistry.

If you want a deeper comparison of the two formulations, we break down body butter vs. lotion in detail, including water content, concentration, skin feel, and moisture retention.

Water Isn’t Bad. We Just Didn’t Need to Sell It to You.

This distinction matters.

Frozen People isn’t built around the argument that water is dangerous, toxic, or scientifically inappropriate in skincare.

It isn’t.

We simply didn’t need it for the moisturizer we wanted to make.

We wanted a concentrated product built primarily around mango butter and jojoba oil.

We wanted a small amount to go a long way.

We wanted something rich enough for an Alaska winter without leaving us feeling like we had covered ourselves in petroleum jelly.

And most importantly, we wanted our skin to still feel moisturized hours after applying it.

So we left the water out.

Water isn’t a bad skincare ingredient. We simply decided we didn’t need to sell it to you.

That same philosophy guides the rest of our formulation. You can see why we use each ingredient and what we intentionally leave out in our Ingredients & FAQs.

What Happens When You Remove the Water?

From a formulation standpoint, something very straightforward happens:

Everything else occupies more of the formula.

If a conventional product contains a large aqueous phase, that water represents part of the total formulation. Remove that phase and the remaining formulation can consist entirely of nonaqueous ingredients.

That’s what we mean when we call Frozen People concentrated.

We aren’t claiming that the word “concentrated” magically makes a moisturizer more effective.

We’re describing what is physically in the tin.

Frozen People isn’t a water-based lotion with a little mango butter and jojoba oil added to it.

The mango butter and jojoba oil are the foundation of the product.

That’s a distinction you can feel when you use it.

You need very little. The body butter warms as you work it between your hands and spreads across the skin.

Instead of using water to create more product volume, we would rather give you more of the ingredients we actually designed the moisturizer around.

Put more simply:

You’re paying for body butter. We think you should get body butter.

But Is Waterless Skincare Actually Better?

This deserves a straightforward answer:

Not automatically.

There isn’t strong clinical evidence demonstrating that every anhydrous moisturizer is superior to every lotion or cream.

One of the largest pragmatic comparisons of different emollient types randomized 550 children with eczema to use lotions, creams, gels, or ointments. Researchers found no meaningful difference in effectiveness among the four categories.[12] 

That’s important.

A poorly formulated waterless product doesn’t become good simply because someone removed the water.

And a well-formulated lotion doesn’t become ineffective simply because water is its first ingredient.

Formulation matters.

Ingredients matter.

How much you apply matters.

How consistently you use the product matters.

And outside a laboratory, your experience using it matters.

Skincare Doesn’t Live in a Laboratory

Scientific studies are incredibly useful.

They help us understand skin physiology, barrier function, individual ingredients, mechanisms, safety, and what happens under controlled conditions.

But your moisturizer doesn’t spend its life in a laboratory.

It lives on your bathroom counter.

Eventually, the question most people ask is much simpler:

Does this stuff actually work for my skin?

That question is a major reason Frozen People exists.

Our family lives in Alaska, where long, brutally cold winters, extremely dry air, wind, frequent showers, outdoor recreation, and dramatic seasonal changes put moisturizers to the test.

We tried inexpensive everyday lotions.

We tried premium moisturizers.

We tried products approaching $80.

The promises changed. The packaging got nicer. The prices climbed.

Our experience didn’t change nearly as much.

Our skin would feel good immediately after applying many of them, and then hours later it often felt dry again.

Eventually, Katie stopped looking for another product and started making one.

Through repeated formulation, testing, tweaking, and plenty of trial and error, the product that became Frozen People emerged.

And our experience changed.

Dryness eased. Cracking stopped. And our skin stayed moisturized throughout the day unless we physically washed the product away.

Since launching Frozen People, customers have shared similar experiences with us.

Those experiences aren’t randomized controlled trials.

We don’t pretend they are.

But they’re also not meaningless.

Clinical research answers certain questions extremely well. Real-world experience answers others.

We care about both.

Why Water-Based Moisturizers Can Feel Great at First

One interesting part of the research helps explain something many people have experienced.

Water can increase hydration in the stratum corneum, but water alone doesn’t explain the lasting performance of a moisturizer. The rest of the formulation matters.[4,10]

That helps explain why a lightweight lotion can feel immediately refreshing and moisturizing.

But what happens afterward depends on much more.

How well does the product reduce water loss?

What emollients are present?

Does it contain effective humectants?

How much did you apply?

How frequently do you use it?

What condition is your skin barrier in?

What environment are you living in?

Those variables matter far more than the simple presence or absence of water.

This is also why we don’t claim that water “dries out your skin.”

That’s an oversimplification.

Our criticism is different.

If we’re buying a moisturizer specifically because we want rich, lasting moisture, we would rather devote the formula to the ingredients we want on our skin than make water its foundation.

That’s a formulation philosophy.

And after living with both approaches, it’s the one we prefer.

What About Applying Body Butter to Damp Skin?

You’ve probably heard the advice to apply moisturizer shortly after showering.

There is a reasonable physiological explanation for it.

Bathing temporarily increases water content in the stratum corneum, and occlusive products can reduce water loss from the skin.[13,14]

That’s one reason our instructions recommend applying Frozen People after a shower or bath while your skin is slightly damp.

But here’s where the science gets interesting.

The direct evidence doesn’t establish that applying moisturizer to damp skin is universally superior to applying it to dry skin.

A small crossover study examined several bathing and moisturizing routines in five subjects with atopic dermatitis and five with healthy skin. In the atopic dermatitis group, moisturizer applied without bathing actually produced greater average hydration during the 90-minute observation period than the tested bathing plus moisturizer routines. Immediate versus delayed application after bathing was also similar.[15] 

That doesn’t mean applying moisturizer after bathing is pointless.

It means the evidence is more nuanced than the familiar advice suggests.

So we’re not going to tell you your body butter suddenly stops working because your skin dried off before you opened the tin.

It doesn’t.

We like applying it after bathing because the mechanism makes sense and because it works exceptionally well for us in real-world use.

But the most important thing is simpler:

Use your moisturizer consistently.

Waterless Products and Preservatives

Removing water creates another important formulation difference: microbiology.

Microorganisms need available water to grow.

The relevant concept isn’t simply how much water a product contains. Scientists use a measurement called water activity, which describes how much water is available within a formulation to participate in processes including microbial growth.[16]

This distinction matters because two products containing water can have very different water activity depending on how they’re formulated.

Conventional lotions and creams with an aqueous phase therefore need an appropriate preservation strategy to control microbial contamination and growth.[17,18]

Anhydrous products present a very different environment. With little or no available water, microbial growth becomes much more difficult, which is why many truly anhydrous formulations can be made without the same conventional preservative systems used in water-containing emulsions.[17,18]

But there’s an important caveat:

Waterless does not mean sterile.

Microorganisms can still be introduced through raw materials, manufacturing, fingers, or the environment. Low water availability can prevent growth without necessarily eliminating every viable organism, and introducing water during use can change the conditions inside a product.[17,19]

That’s why good manufacturing practices and sensible product handling still matter.

It’s also why we wouldn’t tell you that an anhydrous product “can’t grow bacteria.”

Science is rarely improved by absolute statements.

What About Mango Butter?

Mango butter is the primary ingredient in Frozen People.

It’s a plant-derived fat rich in fatty acids, particularly stearic and oleic acids.[20]

From a formulation standpoint, it gives Frozen People much of its richness, structure, emolliency, and characteristic skin feel.

It helps soften and condition dry skin while giving us the substantial moisturizer we wanted without relying on petrolatum as the product’s foundation.

Human research specifically isolating mango butter as a standalone moisturizer is limited.

One small study evaluated a mango butter-containing foot cream and reported improvement of worn and cracked skin in its human volunteers. But the finished cream contained multiple ingredients, and the research was not designed to isolate mango butter itself, so it cannot tell us how much of the observed effect came from mango butter alone.[20,21] 

That doesn’t mean mango butter doesn’t work as an emollient.

It means the clinical literature hasn’t isolated the ingredient particularly well.

Our decision to use mango butter came from its composition, its role as an emollient, its formulation characteristics and, ultimately, how it performed in the product we were developing.

Sometimes product development involves published science.

Sometimes it involves formulation chemistry.

And sometimes it involves putting something on your skin repeatedly and asking:

Does this actually work?

For us, mango butter kept earning its place in the formula.

Why We Use Jojoba Oil

Jojoba is interesting because it isn’t technically a conventional triglyceride oil.

It consists predominantly of long-chain wax esters, giving it a different chemical profile from many familiar plant oils.[22]

Experimental research has examined jojoba’s interaction with the stratum corneum and its effects on skin water distribution, while laboratory research using human skin organ culture has explored additional skin-related properties.[23,24]

The clinical literature is still limited, however.

We would not describe jojoba as “clinically proven to repair the skin barrier.”

What we can say is that it functions beautifully in our formulation.

It helps the product spread.

It contributes emolliency.

It helps us achieve a rich moisturizer without the excessively heavy or greasy experience we were trying to avoid.

And when we tested different approaches during development, it helped produce the skin feel we wanted.

Again, science and experience don’t have to be enemies.

One can inform the other.

Natural Doesn’t Automatically Mean Better Either

Here’s another place where we’re willing to challenge our own side of the skincare aisle.

Natural does not automatically mean safe, gentle, or non-irritating.

Botanical ingredients and essential oils contain biologically active compounds, and some fragrance compounds can cause irritation or allergic contact dermatitis in susceptible people.[25-28]

Oxidized compounds derived from limonene and linalool, for example, are recognized contact allergens. Studies of dermatitis patients undergoing patch testing have documented sensitization to their oxidation products.[26,27]

That’s relevant to us.

Our scented products contain essential oil blends because we enjoy them and intentionally formulated them into those products.

But we’re not going to pretend that because they came from plants, nobody could ever react to them.

If you know your skin is particularly reactive to fragrance or essential oils, our Unscented formula contains no added essential oils or fragrance.

And with any new skincare product, especially if you have highly reactive skin, patch testing first is reasonable.

Ingredient transparency means telling you what ingredients can do, not just telling you the parts that sound good in an advertisement.

Doesn’t Waterless Body Butter Feel Greasy?

It can.

There is nothing inherent about the word “waterless” that prevents a product from being greasy.

In fact, heavier ointments can be less cosmetically acceptable to some users. A secondary analysis of the 550-participant BEE trial found lower satisfaction with ointments than with lotions, creams, or gels, demonstrating just how much texture and user preference can matter.[29] 

That presented one of the biggest formulation challenges for us.

We wanted the staying power and richness of an anhydrous moisturizer.

We didn’t want to feel coated in grease.

So Frozen People wasn’t designed simply by throwing butter and oil into a tin.

The ratios matter.

The ingredients matter.

The whipping process matters.

Arrowroot matters.

How much you apply matters.

Our goal was to find the point where a very small amount could spread over the skin, leave it moisturized and protected, and settle down without the slippery aftermath we disliked in other heavy moisturizers.

That took experimentation.

And it’s also why we tell people:

Start small.

With concentrated body butter, more isn’t necessarily better.

A Little Goes a Long Way

This is one of the biggest behavioral adjustments when moving from lotion to waterless body butter.

With lotion, it’s easy to pump out a large amount because the product spreads quickly over the skin.

Frozen People behaves differently.

Start with approximately a nickel- to quarter-sized amount depending on the area you’re covering.

Warm it between your hands.

Apply it to the skin.

Give it a moment.

You can always add more.

Using too much of almost any lipid-rich moisturizer can make it feel greasy. That isn’t necessarily a sign that the product isn’t absorbing. Sometimes it simply means you used far more than your skin needed.

A 3.2 ounce tin may look small next to a large pump bottle of lotion.

But you’re comparing two very different formulations.

Volume alone doesn’t tell you what that volume is made of.

So Who Is Waterless Skincare For?

Waterless moisturizers may appeal particularly to people who prefer richer products, experience persistent dryness, live in dry environments, spend substantial time outdoors, wash or shower frequently, or simply find that conventional lotions don’t give them the lasting moisturized feeling they want.

That’s us.

Alaska simply made the problem impossible to ignore.

Our winters are long, cold, and dry. Indoor heating can make already dry conditions feel even harsher. Wind and outdoor exposure add another challenge. Frequent handwashing and showers repeatedly remove whatever moisturizer you previously applied.

But Frozen People was never intended to be an “Alaska-only” product.

Skin doesn’t suddenly operate by different rules when you cross a state line.

Dry skin exists in Colorado.

Texas.

Florida.

New York.

India.

Anywhere people shower, wash their hands, encounter dry air, spend time outdoors, or simply have skin that needs more than their current moisturizer is giving them.

Alaska didn’t create different skin.

It created a very unforgiving place to test moisturizer.

Why Frozen People Chose Waterless

We didn’t start with the term “waterless skincare” and work backward to create a product that fit a trend.

We started with a problem.

Our moisturizers weren’t doing what we wanted them to do.

Frozen People ultimately grew out of our family's frustration with moisturizers that weren't doing what we needed them to do. Our story started in Alaska, where dry air, cold temperatures, an active family, and a lot of trial and error eventually pushed us to make something different.

So Katie started making something different.

Eventually, that meant questioning assumptions that we had previously never thought much about.

Why does this moisturizer contain so much water?

Why does this $60 or $80 product still leave our skin feeling dry?

Why are ingredient lists so long?

What does each ingredient actually do?

What happens if we remove the things we don’t need and increase the ingredients we actually want?

Those questions eventually produced something remarkably simple.

Mango butter.

Jojoba oil.

Vitamin E.

Arrowroot.

And essential oils when we want scent.

That’s it.

No added water.

No alcohols.

No synthetic fragrance.

No enormous ingredient list just to make the formula look impressive.

Nothing unnecessary. Nothing without a purpose.

The Bottom Line: Waterless Isn’t Magic

Waterless skincare isn’t magic.

It isn’t automatically superior.

Water isn’t harmful simply because it appears first on an ingredient list.

And there are well-formulated water-based moisturizers.

But there is also nothing wrong with asking what you’re actually paying for.

We spent years buying moisturizers that promised lasting hydration and didn’t deliver the experience we wanted.

Eventually, we stopped accepting that as normal.

Frozen People takes a different approach.

Rather than building our moisturizer around water, we built it around the ingredients we actually wanted on our skin.

Rather than making a larger water-based product, we made a smaller tin of concentrated body butter where a little goes a long way.

And rather than telling you that a laboratory has proven our formula superior to everything else on the market, we’ll tell you what actually happened:

We made the moisturizer we couldn’t find.

It worked better for our family than anything we’d tried before.

Our customers began telling us the same thing.

And Alaska continues to put it to the test.

Water isn’t a bad skincare ingredient. We simply decided we didn’t need to sell it to you.

Born in the Arctic. Built for Everyday Life.

Stay Wild. Stay Moisturized.

Ready to see what waterless skincare feels like? Explore Frozen People Body Butter, handcrafted in Alaska with mango butter, jojoba oil, vitamin E, arrowroot powder, and no added water.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Kenneth “Kenny” Sheafer, MS, RDN, LDN, CDCES

Registered Dietitian Nutritionist · Published Researcher · Human Performance Professional · Co-Founder, Frozen People

Kenny is a Registered Dietitian Nutritionist, Certified Diabetes Care and Education Specialist, published researcher, U.S. Army officer, and co-founder of Frozen People. His work focuses on nutrition science, human performance, and translating research into practical education people can actually use.

Read Kenny's Bio · View Published Research 

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